What’s a Dhaba?
Came across this really interesting article while searching for a new recipe for Butter Chicken. (Ya, yet another version) Well written too, about dhabhas, that not-quite-explainable truckers’ stop cum gourmet food-stop cum way-to-prove-you know-your-indian-food topic of conversation that’s quintessentially North Indian but can be found almost anyplace there’s a highway, and lots of urban places there isn’t.
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I am a veteran of a thousand dhabhas – right from the sleepy ones tucked away in the dull greyness of Grand Trunk Road to the city-swank premises of Mumbai, Chandigarh and Chennai, where patrons can even have a back-rest to lean on. Dhabhas are as much a cultural icon as the Vedas and the temples of India and no sociological analysis of India is complete without a chapter on them. And for some of us, growing up very poor (translation: “depending solely on the kindness of dads, which in turn depended on college grades”) dhabhas were economic necessities. Dressed only in torn kurtas and Kalyanpur tire chappals, no self-respecting restaurant in Kanpur would have allowed us in anyways and so dhabhas were also a cultural refuge where we could be ourselves… I don’t think Mahadevan Ramesh will mind if I lead you there. Read more.


